
Ilaria
A journey of discovery of the Sparkling Beverage obtained from Apples.
Apple Cider is one of the most popular drinks for its distinctive taste and, in part, for its rich and long history.
Over time, it has gone from being a rare and delicious liqueur to a more widely consumed drink with beneficial health properties.
Vulgarly called “apple wine”, it is an alcoholic liqueur derived from the fermentation of apples not used for food.
The process is very similar to that used to make wine. Instead of grapes, however, all those apples that, either due to excessive ripeness or a too intense taste, are used that are intended for a use other than food.
Apple cider has a very low alcohol content, on average less than 5%. It has a sweetish taste and a flavor similar to a very light and sparkling beer. Over the course of history, however, its processing has undergone significant changes in all the areas where it has been produced.
Although its name brings to mind Celtic origins, the production of cider began in ancient Egypt.
Rome did not particularly appreciate the taste of this drink and much preferred the consumption of wine. In some areas further north of the empire, however, growing grapes was difficult due to the climate; however, it was different for apples, which found fertile soil in those areas. This is why cider spread particularly in the northern areas of France, and in Great Britain.
Historically, the first references to orchards and fermented drinks date back to testimonies such as those of Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia as well as in numerous artistic testimonies (for example mosaics). It is precisely thanks to these traces that we know that cider has been produced in the Roman Empire since the 1st century AD.
Cider probably did not have a massive and widespread production like wine in ancient times because the fruit from which it is obtained, the apple, is much harder to squeeze by hand, so the production of cider gradually became more and more massified with the advent of the technology of the mill.
We find subsequent testimonies of cider in English literature starting from 1066, or after the Norman conquest of Britain.
During the Middle Ages, cider was consumed mainly in monasteries and abbeys. The light alcoholic component and the particular taste made it a type of “niche” drink. The rest of the population preferred to drink wine and beer, the first because it was considered more noble, the second because it was more widely consumed.
However, with the passage of time, the low production costs and diffusion of cider made it an increasingly popular liqueur.
The 1400s and 1500s were truly fortunate centuries for cider, which had become a refined drink consumed exclusively by the elite.
Not a drink for the common people and the counts, but rather something classy to be enjoyed in elegant crystal cider glasses.
Cider production then reached its peak starting from 1600, cider is a highly appreciated native drink that equals the appeal of wine, and is also the protagonist of a truly important treatise, John Evelyn’s Pomona published in 1664. This is a volume that includes a detailed review of the benefits of cider, absolutely the first in history.
Cider continued to see prosperous years also thanks to Lord Scudamore who, returning to the United Kingdom after a long service in France, decided to dedicate himself to the cultivation of orchards, in particular apple orchards. In England he also planted some French varieties, in particular the famous Herefordshire redstreak which was very successful in the cider making sector.
In the same period in which Lord Scudamore was trying his hand at growing his apples imported from France, the courtier Sir Kenelm Digby began an industrial production of glass bottles which were immediately used for the production of cider.
Glass bottles were in fact the best container in terms of strength and stability for the time, also allowing the cider to finish the last part of the fermentation directly inside the bottle, making the drink acquire a light natural effervescence. Thus was born the classic method in the production of cider, otherwise known as méthode traditionelle or Champenoise.
Cider suffered a severe blow in terms of production and consumption from 1700.
This phenomenon occurred mainly because new beverages arrived from abroad that were just as delicious and refined as Port, which immediately conquered the palates of the English aristocracy, and because of the famous Cider Bill of 1763.
The Cider Bill was nothing more than a specific tax imposed by the government on the production of cider to pay off the national public debt, 4 shillings per barrel of cider. A real disgrace for the fermented apple drink.
During the late 1800s, the giant H.P. Bulmer Ltd. was born, whose rise is documented in the book Early days of cider making written in 1937 by Fred Bulmer (brother of Percy).
The two Bulmer brothers literally revolutionized the way cider was produced. In fact, they decided to better understand and study the scientific aspect behind the production of cider, so after a trip to France to learn the secrets directly from local producers, they decided to include a key figure in their company, Dr. Herbert Durham.
Dr. Durham’s contribution was truly important as he began long studies and research on cider and managed to isolate the ideal yeast strain to obtain an excellent product, a yeast that is still used today by the English company.
Nowadays, apple cider is no longer considered a drink for the few and is consumed all over the world.
Its global diffusion began at the end of the eighteenth century, starting from central Europe and going overseas, and is mainly due to two factors.
Cider and the 2006 World Cup
What not many people know is that in the 2000s a phenomenon called the Magners effect occurred, which helped bring apple cider back into the limelight: the 2006 World Cup.
That’s right, until then cider had not enjoyed an excellent reputation, especially among young people who much preferred beer (better if craft).
In 2006 there was a very hot summer and Magners launched an impressive advertising campaign focused on conviviality and where they invited people to drink their cider with ice. Thus was born the ritual of pouring cider on ice cubes, a ritual that will accompany all the World Cups.
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